If you are unable to attend the meeting, you may complete the Proxy Nomination Form below and fax it, no later than 1st May, 2005 to the Secretary, Nisha Dobberstein at 2093 6213.

NEWSLETTER SUBMISSIONS

If you have any interesting stories, travelogues or photographs you'd like to submit, we would love to have them. You can submit articles, artwork and photographs to the editor at mcgevents@yahoo.com with 'newsletter' in the subject line. Please send text as MS Word documents. Artwork/photos should be at 300dpi resolution.

Please submit all articles for the May newsletter by April 8.

Stories are edited for reasons of clarity, space or accuracy of expression. The opinions expressed in the MCG newsletter are those of the writers concerned and not necessarily those of the MCG.
- Lorna Wilkinson

REPORTS   FROM   PREVIOUS   EVENTS

EXPLORERS FEBRUARY 2005: Visit to the Studio of Artist Ilse Noor.

In February The Explorers escaped from KL to spend a delightful morning with Ilse Noor, the acclaimed artist, at her studio and home in Lembah Beringing, Rawang. Ilse has named her home "Kunang Kunang" after the fireflies that sometimes visit her garden. The house took approximately two years to complete and can be described as a contemporary tropical house, as it has all the amenities that one would expect in a modern home with the exception of air conditioning.

The positioning of the house which is slightly elevated above a golf course, combined with the open plan layout of the house ensures that there is a constant flow of air passing through the building. Then what appear to be purely decorative features like the Malaccan openwork panels above the door ways further enhance this air flow, so that even ceiling fans are not required! Wherever possible local building materials have been used so in addition to the Malaccan carving there are ceramic Chinese jade coloured tiles, and traditional style window shutters made from Merbau wood. There are no ceilings so the wooden beams and struts are exposed and you can clearly observe the traditional joisting methods.

German-born Ilse is a master artist employing the etching technique. Ilse has set up her studio in a two storey structure at the side of the house. On the top floor Isle spends her time working on the copper plates, an intensely time-consuming activity that requires both a sharp eye and a steady hand. Many of us were surprised to learn that the origins of etching date back five centuries when it was used to decorate plated armour. Then the 16th Century German artist Albrecht Durer, who learnt etching from his father a goldsmith, developed the technique to be used in printmaking. Another surprise was to discover that Rembrandt in his life time was acclaimed for his etching and not his oil paintings.

Ilse uses the intaglio printmaking method of etching and acquatint. Intaglio is one of four methods whereby the design is engraved onto a metal plate using tools or acid. Ilse explained to us how the copper plate is coated with wax and then the design is etched into this layer, which is then followed with an acid treatment. A trial printing is done called an Artist's Proof, and from this the artist will make changes until they are satisfied with the finished item. Ilse gave us a printing demonstration using her offset press, which further reinforced the precision required in this art form as the amount of ink used; the dampness of the paper and the pressure used all had to be correct to produce a high quality print with sharp lines and images.

Ilse's commissioned works include "The Shell Book of Heritage", with over 20 detailed etchings of historical buildings in Malaysia, and a series on the Kris, the powerful symbol of Malay spirituality and strength. In 1997, UNESCO commissioned Ilse to work on a series of prints to celebrate the world's oceans. Ilse's last exhibition called "Samudra" was held at Petronas Art Gallery in 2002. This created an exotic underwater world inhabited by mythical enchanted castles and palaces, took Ilse two years to complete. It was good news to hear that Ilse's next solo exhibition will be towards the end of this year.

Ilse's explanations and demonstrations were very comprehensive and dispelled the mystery surrounding this complex artistic technique. Ilse was a such a wonderful, gracious host that it was with great regret we left her beautiful home to return to the high rises of Kuala Lumpur.
- Diana Cooper

OZE'S AYURVEDIC MEDICAL CENTRE - 15th February

An 83 year old friend of mine uses turmeric as a cure all for everything. She dabs it on cuts and wounds, drinks it for any aches and pains, including arthritis, and mixes it into a paste to rejuvenate her skin! This remedy was given to her as a child by an Ayurvedic family doctor and her medicine chest only contains jars of turmeric and Aspirin.

I was excited to read in the MCG newsletter about the talk on Ayurveda and immediately signed up, eager and ready to listen and learn about this ancient Indian system of traditional medicine and healing.

The room on the second floor at Oze's Ayurvedic Medical Centre was packed to capacity and the morning was filled with wonderful surprises organized by the staff and Dr C Radhakrishnan, one of two physicians there. He gave us an enlightened talk accompanied by slides, graphs and charts.

He began by describing the basics of Ayurveda and the concept of "body" according to this science. He then talked about the functions of Ayurveda, and how it can be used not only to cure illnesses, but to prevent them as well. He explained that humans and the environment are made up of five elements - air, fire, water, earth and ether (or space) Each of these corresponds to one of our five senses and they combine to give rise to three main physiological tendencies, or doshas, known as kapha, pitta, and vata. These relate to the levels of energy affecting the body. We were given a questionnaire and by filling it, we worked out our own body types.

To maintain a healthy body and mind, Dr Radhakrishnan stressed that it was important to cultivate a routine and to adhere to it. An early morning start, followed by prescribed cleansing of the ears, nose and throat and a few Yoga postures. He also talked about the importance of eating the right types of food and he concluded by explaining the different treatments that are on offer at the Centre and the important role that oil plays in all of these. Two oils are used as the base, but there are over 200 different combinations!

We were taken around the Centre in small groups to see the treatment rooms and other facilities. We were also shown some of the natural, herbal products which are imported from Kerala, in addition to some herbal remedies which are on sale. The Centre is open seven days a week and the treatments vary in length from 1 to 28 days. The staff are well trained in Ayurvedic treatment techniques and massage, and the atmosphere is relaxed and friendly.

The talk ended with a lucky draw and the ladies who held the winning tickets will enjoy free treatments at the Centre. We were then given a CD of music composed and compiled especially for us by Dr Radhakrishnan , and as if all of this were not enough, we were invited to enjoy a delicious lunch cooked by the Centre with delicacies from Kerala.
- Hootoksi Tyabji

THE SPIRIT OF WOOD - Thursday 17th February

Waveney Jenkins is an international artist and sculptor who has lived in Malaysia for many years and has been active in supporting Malaysian arts and culture.

The arts of the East Coast have developed from the ancient historical kingdom of Langkasukan which included Pattani (now part of Thailand since 1908). This was a civilization based on Hindu mythology. After the introduction of Islam in the 15th century, there have been modifications of design covering or eliminating human or mythological figures but the basic motifs remain because the deity hilts were too powerful as talisman to be discarded.

The Master Carvers
Waveney paid special tribute to Nik Rashiddin Nik Hussein who developed the art of carving kris hilts from rare woods and domesticated ivory to produce exquisite pieces.

He was born in Pattani in 1951 and grew up in Khota Bahru. He was fascinated by the work of the old carvers there and went on to study in Java and Bali. Working as a carver initially he was commissioned to design doors and panelling. He collected artifacts and built up a collection of over 1000 hilts, blades and sheaths for all types of Kris, especially Kris Tajong which is specific to Kelantan.

His work was not acknowledged or respected by the authorities and he became frustrated and had a nervous breakdown. Luckily at that time he met and married Rosnawati Othman. They settled in Kandis.

He then concentrated on carving superb kris hilts and sheaths and in documenting designs from buildings and artifacts.

The Spirit of Wood
In 1998 Waveney met Nik Rashiddin through another young carver Norhaiza Noordin who was his student and friend. Together they planned a book, The Spirit of Wood, about his work and ideas. To combat official apathy they decided to take an exhibition abroad to seek international recognition.

International Recognition
A tour to Europe was a great success. Nik

Rashiddin met expert collectors from museums and private collections who were very impressed by his first hand knowledge and skill and Norhaiza documented some of the things they saw.

A small initial exhibition was held at Badan Warisan with great success. The international tour began at the Asian Civilizations Museum in Singapore. In January 2004 the exhibits were on show at the Brunei Gallery in the School of Oriental and African Studies attracting almost 11.000 visitors.

With international recognition established, the homecoming show will take place with an international seminar on The Spirit and Form of Malay Design at the end of June 2005.

Special Aspects of Malay Design
Within almost all Malay artifacts, particularly those from the East Coast there are recurring motifs. Nik Rashiddin has linked these to the Langkasukan era between 2 and 14th centuries when there were strong influences from Hinduism and Buddhism mixed with indigenous animistic beliefs.

Present Day Developments
Sadly Nik Rashiddin died in 2002 but his work lives on. The Spirit of Wood was published by Periplus (HK) Ltd 2000. It is a beautifully illustrated and fascinating book.

Norhaiza Noordin has established the House of Arts in Kg Raja,Terengannu

Traditionally the kris of a family embodies its spirit and continuity. It is proposed that these wonderful intricate carved kris and hilts should be bought and treasured by corporations to embody the spirit and tradition of the company and its policies and used to portray this concept on formal occasions.

We were privileged to have Waveney to talk to us and to have the opportunity to see these beautiful artifacts of which Malaysians can be very proud.
- Gwen Smith

TRAVEL TIPS AND EXPERIENCES: HILL TRIBES OF VIETNAM - 21 February

Joan Hunter told us there are 54 ethnic groups in Vietnam, some comprised of millions of people and others of just a few hundred. There are two Northern Hill Tribes.

1. THE HMONG
   The Hmong live in a highland environment. There are 18 clans, each having its own village and territory, a Chief and a very strict code of rules to follow. The traditional homes are of wood, bamboo and thatch and they keep pigs and buffalo and crop rice, corn and hemp. They have a tonal language where the tone can completely change the meaning of a word. A written language was introduced in 1952 but their literature and learning is passed on from memory using legends. The people wear very bright and colourful clothing and silver jewellery is incorporated into their everyday clothing.

   Joan visited three market places - Sa Pa, Bac Ha and Coc Ly. At the markets people shop, as well as meet to share news and gossip. They travel to these markets on foot, pack horse or on motor cycles and they wear their best clothes. You can find fresh produce, livestock, wine and handcrafts here.

   The Hill Tribe people believe in Animism and Shamanism. They believe the spiritual world co-exists with the physical and that the Shamans maintain communication between the two worlds. The Hmong people believe in reincarnation.

   It is believed there are three basic causes of illness - natural or non-spiritual, religious and other causes such as curses. It is the Shamans who diagnose and treat these ailments. For the body to be well, all 12 souls need to be intact. Souls may be lost by sudden fright, grief, capture by evil spirits or trying to transfer to another body due to unhappiness.

   Marriage is perceived as a relationship between two households and clans as a couple cannot marry within their own clan. A negotiator is used and a girl's family cannot reject a marriage demand. After the ceremony the wife moves in with her husband and his family. Polygamy is permitted but divorce is taboo.New mothers and babies are confined to the home for 30 days. On the third day a soul calling and naming ceremony is held and then the child is considered a person having a full complement of souls .

   The celebration of New Year (Tet) and the Harvest are very important and traditional games and music play a large role.

2. THE RED DAO
   This group practice the Cult of Ancestors. Originally there were 12 lineages, each lineage divided into branches and these branches subdivided into great families. Each great family has a Chief and he is responsible for the veneration of the ancestors.

   Marriage is with parental approval and the "concord" of the couple's birth dates. The young man may live and work with the girl's parents for 3 to 4 days. Another visit may be made in another 2 months where he is able to speak to and share the bedroom with the girl. If the obligation is not met the wedding ceremony still takes place but it is a "temporary wedding" only.

   After the birth of a baby the Red Dao people inform the ancestors 3 days after the event. When the baby is 30 days old he/she is named after a guardian gene and then at aged 10 the child receives his/her true name. At 13 years girls have a hair waxing ceremony and boys have a ceremonial baptism at 15 to 20 years of age.

To travel to the Hill Tribe area Joan recommends traveling overnight on the Victoria Express which is associated with the Victoria Hotel.

Joan also visited Hanoi which she says is wonderful and then went on to visit the World Heritage Area of Halong Bay with its unbelievable scenery.

In summary, Joan highly recommends travelling to Vietnam as it is a beautiful and varied country with very friendly people. It is accessible, good value for money and suitable for families. The best time to go is during April and May and October.
- Beverley Horder

ANGIN AND THE INNER WINDS - Thursday, 24th February

We were very fortunate to have Bernice Chauly to present more fascinating aspects of East Coast Malay culture.

Bernice is a talented writer photographer and film maker. She talked to us about some of the drama forms from the pre-Islamic culture of the East Coast. Angin or The Inner Winds is used to describe the Malay psyche.

The concept of illness as a psychosomatic phenomenon is not new. The dance dramas are part of shamanistic ritual for the release of inner tensions and the relief of symptoms. Illness was attributed to frustration which follows failure to follow a one's own prototype. These traditions are part of a heritage which has been transferred orally from one generation to the next .

In 1998 Bernice made film documentaries to record some of the older traditional Semangat Isas (Masters of Tradition) . She showed some of this series to us. These traditions are from the pre-Islamic era and a conflict of ideas was perceived by some authorities. As a result it was difficult to obtain funding and the necessary official permits for this project. Today there is a Ministry of Culture. There should be more research and documentation to preserve our historical art forms.

Semangat Isas (Masters of Tradition)
These documentary films were made to show some of the older practitioners of the drama forms. Mat Dollah Baju Merah was shown briefly as puppeteer for Wayang Kulit. Sadly he recently passed away. Menora is a dance performance for the entertainment of the gods. Fragments are shown in the film.

Mak Yong (Pageant of the Ancients)
The stars of these dance drams are female with women also portraying male characters. The families make up the performing troupe. This film features Che Min and the transfer of Angin to her granddaughter Rosa.

Che Min and her group were from Thailand and in 1991 they were raided by Islamic Fundamentalists who destroyed much of their equipment and costumes.. They came to Kelantan where they were arrested because they had no travel/identity documents. They were eventually allowed to stay and settled in Kuala Besut.

The story is told by a close friend of Che Min. She relates how the granddaughter was inspired to join the group and how she was initiated to the ritual. She had dropped out of school and was recognized as having "sakit berangin" i.e. suffering from the transfer of angin(inspiration to perform) Scenes from the film show excerpts from the 3 day performance in which Rosa is initiated as a Mak Yong performer. The construction of the Dewan Balai Kecil is shown with figurines with yellow umbrellas in the entourage symbolizing royalty. The music is provided by a white fiddle and rebok (drums).

The dancing is continuous. On the third night the shaman goes into a trance and is followed by members of the audience. Most of them are Malay women. They continue to dance in their changed state until they are exhausted. Rosa is shown taking part in this ritual performance during which her Angin is allowed to develop.

The release of emotions which results from the trance is therapeutic. The people concerned consider that they are able to pray better because they are healed. Che Min performed in New York 1991 and after her return she became ill with heart problems and she died in 1995.

Her granddaughter has married and has a family. Rosa performs regularly when there is funding and opportunity to do so.
- Gwen Smith

Chapter I
Eight Million Gods and Demons by Hiroko Sherwin

This is the story of a family living in Japan during the Meiji Era through World War II. The back cover of the book states that the title "Eight Million Gods and Demons" refers to the number of deities in the Japanese pantheon.

The story begins with the life of Emi, a gentle musician who is a teenager at the beginning of the story. In addition to suffering from Epilepsy, Emi faces many other hardships in her lifetime including the loss of her babies, the imprisonment of her husband Taku and his eventual betrayal of her when he sets up a second family with his ex-Geisha mistress Hanu. Emi and Taku finally have a son Jun who survives beyond infancy to eventually become a doctor.

After the deeply moving account of Emi's death, the story continues with Jun replacing Emi as the central character. Jun goes to live with his father Taku, his stepmother Hanu and his half brother and sisters. He and his half sister Yumi fall in love and this forbidden love is to endure for the rest of their lives despite both of them marrying other people.

The rest of the story is about the many tragedies that befall the family including the traumas associated with living in wartime. Sherwin illustrates the horrors of war through the very different reactions each character has to Japan's involvement in World War II and these reactions to the war impact on the characters' relationships, provoking some interesting discussion amongst our group on war and conflict, particularly on the issue of how to end a war.

The family also suffers the effects of a major earthquake and its many aftershocks. During the earthquake Jun proposes to his future wife Sayo, a practical and efficient nurse who is interested in Sumo wrestling.

Sherwin cleverly develops the characters in this book, the majority of who are female. She presents us with characters such as Hanu and Sayo who are a wonderful contrast to each other but who are both far removed from the stereotypical images of Japanese women of that period that most of us in the group were familiar with. As a consequence some members of the group found these women to be unrealistic characters whereas other members found them entirely believable.

Each member of our book group had a very definite opinion on each of the main characters in this story. For instance, some members of the group considered Emi to be a strong character, her strength coming from her stoicism. Whereas others considered her to be a weak martyr who let opportunities pass her by, particularly the chance to pursue a career in music.

However, everyone in our group considered her to be a very devoted mother to her son Jun. The group also had strong and diverse opinions on Hanu, the mistress. Some saw her as an evil schemer whereas others found some redeeming qualities in her, such as her drive to find a way out of her life as a Geisha and her ability to develop a lucrative antiques business.

Some members of our group were deeply moved by this story particularly the part of the story that focused on Emi. Others thought the plot was "over the top" and that it would be perfect for a movie script mainly because nearly everyone dies. Whilst our group would not go so far as to call this book an "epic" we all agreed it was a great read.
- Bronwen Shelley

Chapter II
Nine Parts of Desire: The Hidden World of Islamic Women by Geraldine Brooks

This book published in 1995, is written by an Australian Wall Street reporter who spent 7 years living and working in the Middle East. She covers most of the Middle Eastern countries explaining Islam in their context, but the title might be somewhat misleading given that she doesn't mention many other Islamic countries including Indonesia, India and Malaysia. Nevertheless she does give real insight into the lives of many of the women she encountered while living amongst them. Her short, snappy, journalistic style often leaves you wanting more information, but she certainly whets the appetite with her descriptive, evocative writing.

She does not give a totally negative view of women in Islam and is optimistic that among those who do "cover-up", and therefore have credence with the male establishment, are dynamic powerful women who do be believe they can make a difference. "That is why I found the brightest hope for positive change camouflaged among the black chadors of devout Iranian women".

She gives a fairly even-handed view of women in Islam, not the one dimensional, unremitting horror of for example Betty Mahmoody's experiences in "Not without My Daughter". In this book, Betty an American is trapped in Iran with an abusive husband in a desperately frightening situation. Geraldine Brooks offers a more balanced view giving the example of an another American wife happily living in Iran, who is more than accepted in to her new Iranian family. But Brooks does say "tales of domestic contentment didn't tell the whole story, any more than Betty Mahmoody's domestic nightmare had."

This book was thoroughly enjoyed by all members of group and certainly provoked lively discussion. We would certainly recommend it to anyone interested Islam and how it has affected women's development.
- Lynn Davies

LIBRARY REPORT
This month I thought I would tell you about other interesting libraries around town.

First is Perpustakaan Negara, the National Library. You can't miss its blue roof near the Istana Budaya on Jalan Tun Razak. Its Malaysiana collection includes books about Malaysia and Malaysians from around the world, but even more interesting is the Malay manuscripts ollection. This includes extremely rare and precious manuscripts, some hundreds of years old. (MCG members were lucky to see them during a visit last year).

The library is open 7 days a week (except public holidays and the first and third Saturdays of every month). Anyone may join - the registration card costs RM1 and is valid for 3 years. Parking is available on site.
Email enquiries: brm@pnm.my
Website: http://www.pnm.my

MCG members know about Badan Warisan, the Heritage Trust of Malaysia, but not everyone may know about its resource centre. This is a rich source of information on the history, architecture and conservation of Malaysia's built heritage, but also includes materials on world heritage and conservation issues.

Badan members may use the resource centre at no charge: a nominal fee applies to others. The centre is open Mondays to Saturdays, 10 to 4, but it is best to make an appointment before you go. Parking is available.
Email enquiries: intan@badanwarisan.org.my
Website: http://badanwarisan.org.my

Lastly, an unusual find, The Goethe Institute, at the corner of Tun Razak and Langgak Golf (down the road from the MCG library) holds a Malaysiana collection of over 120 volumes and videos, which may be borrowed by members of the Institute. Membership costs RM50 per year and the library is open 9 -1 and 3 - 6, Mondays to Fridays. Parking is available in Langgak Golf.
E mail enquiries: goethead@tm.net.my
Website: http://www.goethe.de/so/kua

And there you have it. Let's know of any other interesting collections. Happy reading!
- Joanna Adamson

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